Shanghai Today
A fascinating neighborhood on the banks Suzhou Creek - July 30, 2024
苏州河畔的迷人街区
Geoffrey Handley, a fifth-generation Hong Kong native, is a successful serial entrepreneur in the tech space who started in the late 1990s during the dot.com years, through to 2016.
He then made the decision to spend two-thirds of his time mentoring the younger generation of founders, raising a small early-stage venture capital fund and investing in the most promising ventures. The remainder of his time is spent on his lifelong passion for collecting interesting, unique antiques and artifacts, specifically around the Treaty Ports Period.
Handley has lived in Shanghai since 2007 and finally settled in the famed Embankment Building in Hongkou District in 2017.
Handley has watched Hongkou District change in front of his eyes over the years. It has experienced a veritable transformation as Beisuzhou Road became pedestrian-only, the gardens and boardwalks were upgraded and widened, wonderful artworks were installed, and new restaurants and shops sprung up to entice an increasing number of walkers, runners, TikTokers, lovers, and stargazers to stroll the banks of Suzhou Creek as they head for the lights of the Bund, or the galleries and iconic buildings to the West.
Geoffrey Handley, a fifth-generation Hong Kong native, has watched Hongkou District change drastically in recent years.
Could you Introduce the neighborhood you live in?
To my left, flanked by three-story-tall Corinthian columns, in a baroque tower sits the gods Eros, Hermes, and Aphrodite, guarding the imposing General Post Office Building built in 1924 – celebrating its 100th birthday this year.
To my right, there is the original gate and headquarters of the Chamber of Commerce, now part of the Bulgari residences. And 50 feet from my balcony is the Suzhou Creek, once the heart and soul of trade to and from Shanghai up into China.
I am privileged to call the Palmer & Turner Art Deco masterpiece, the Embankment Building, my home. The building is like the neighborhood, old-timers born here, apartments passed down generations, newer younger Chinese appreciating the cultural significance and a few foreigners who have been here 10, 15, or 20 years.
Handley feels privileged to call the Palmer & Turner Art Deco masterpiece, the Embankment Building, his home.
What's the best thing about living in this neighborhood?
The neighborhood itself, the north bank of Suzhou Creek, is often overshadowed by the grandeur of the Bund. However, this side of the bridges has just as many beautiful, commercial buildings, single-family mansions, and gorgeous Art Deco apartment buildings, as well as a few hidden secret spaces. The balanced mix of old and new is like a journey through time and evokes one's imagination. I am constantly looking up at the buildings and wondering who lived here back in the 1920s or 1930s.
The best thing about this neighborhood is definitely the history, reflected in the architecture as well as the stories – from neo-classical, Spanish-inspired villas, Art Deco towers, Edwardian terraced houses, Islamic-inspired markets and courtyards to complete original Shinto Honkokuji Temple still in existence today, albeit as a multi-family residence located at 439 Zhapu Road.
The newly renovated, former home of the Shanghai Municipal Council – a five-story neoclassical building with a granite facade.
What attractions here should not be missed?
As a history buff and antique collector, I fear I would bore you to death! However, if I had to narrow it down, at the top of my list would be the bridges that light up across the river at 7pm together with the Post Office columns, it is gorgeous and reminds you of Paris.
Both sides of the river are amazing obviously. But I would suggest instead of the Bund itself, walking two or three streets back – the buildings are spectacular, and many of them still have their original list of tenants in the lift lobby.
A must-see is the typically British "circle" (Fuzhou Road and Jiangxi Road) with the newly renovated, former home of the Shanghai Municipal Council – a five-story neoclassical building with a granite facade. On the other three sides of the circle are Hamilton House, the (now) Metropole Hotel and the Commercial Bank of China.
The old American Club building (209 Fuzhou Road) is a classic, one of Ladislaus (Lazlo) Hudec's masterpieces, built in 1923-1925 in a typical American Georgian style. If you ask nicely, they might let you in to take a few photos!
When I want a moment's peace I head down Sichuan Road to a secret little lane on the right-hand side – Kunshan Huayuan Road. I get the same shivers down my back each time I walk through this oasis of what were once single-family mansions with a gorgeous park in front. I literally could spend hours there, looking at their original fireplaces, hand-carved bannisters, ornate doors and door frames, secret hiding places from the Japanese and, best of all, super friendly residents eager to share their snippets of history.
When Handley wants a moment's peace, he heads down Sichuan Road to a secret little lane on the right-hand side – Kunshan Huayuan Road.
Each person may have different tastes, but they all want a great cafe. What's your favorite cafe near home?
Cafe culture in our area is just starting to blossom from the gorgeously restored Deck on the Bund (541 Sichuan Rd M. 四川中路541号) – unmistakable with the giant hand creeping out of the building – to the reliable Luneur's at MixC East section (111 Shanxi Rd N. 山西北路111号苏河湾万象天地东里1楼)
Luneur's at MixC is a reliable place for Handley.
Where should someone eat around here?
Well, on the one side are all the well-known bars and clubs on the Bund which need no introduction, or you can go local, more my style.
There's the old reliable Yang's Dumplings (178 Ningbo Rd 宁波路178号) but there are literally hundreds of small three or four table, family-run kitchens within three minutes walking distance that serve up the most delicious food at ridiculously reasonable prices and, what's more, often you are eating with the family. An experience in itself.
Handley shops at the Quanyou Linli Fruit and Vegetable market (201 Ningbo Rd 宁波路201号).
From high fashion to emerging designers, from flowers to fresh produce, where do you shop in your neighborhood?
For daily food, we can order from Aldi which takes less than 15 minutes to arrive, or I can walk through the Quanyou Linli Fruit and Vegetable market (201 Ningbo Rd 宁波路201号) stocked full with fruits, vegetables, and all cuts of meat, or choose from today's catch of fresh fish, clams and shrimps. That's where I shop. You develop a relationship with the store owner, they begin to know your preferences and if you're lucky, they'll save some favorites for you.
Shopping is an interesting one in our area, it caters to the high–end with Patek Philippe in the old British Consulate building (33 Zhongshan Rd E1), to the expansive Qipu Markets, spread over six city blocks from the corner of Henan Road and Tiantong Road. Ten years ago, it was very tourist-centric, now we are beginning to see many more superstar young fashion designers like near4rest, in a beautifully restored 1920s classical style building on Xianggang Road, to product design collectives, and the fantastic Fotografiska (127 Guangfu Rd 光复路127号) – with an amazing new cafe.
There are more and more small cafes and independent bookshops and, if the stars align, a gorgeous little antique gallery with a unique collection from the Treaty Ports Period will be opening soon.
One place that we absolutely always stop by is the flower shop Flora de Newart (corner of Tiantong Rd and Jiangxi Rd N.) on the ground floor of our building. Jason and his extremely talented and hardworking wife have been at the forefront of floral arts in Shanghai for over 20 years and have a passion not only for flowers but our building and the district.
Flora de Newart has been at the forefront of floral arts in Shanghai for over 20 years.
Is there a neighborhood place you recommend for a night out or simply a drink after work?
For a night out or a drink after work, nothing beats the rooftop bar at the Bulgari Hotel Shanghai (47/F, 108 Shanxi Rd N. 山西北路108弄宝格丽酒店47层). The views alone are worth the bill at the end of the night!
Have you made any new discoveries in your neighborhood lately?
In addition to once being the largest apartment building in Asia and the first apartment building with lifts (over 10 elevators!), it also had a sports and fitness area complete with the first indoor Art Deco swimming pool in Asia – few people know that the swimming pool is still in the building, and even fewer have seen it firsthand!
Source: Shanghai Daily
He then made the decision to spend two-thirds of his time mentoring the younger generation of founders, raising a small early-stage venture capital fund and investing in the most promising ventures. The remainder of his time is spent on his lifelong passion for collecting interesting, unique antiques and artifacts, specifically around the Treaty Ports Period.
Handley has lived in Shanghai since 2007 and finally settled in the famed Embankment Building in Hongkou District in 2017.
Handley has watched Hongkou District change in front of his eyes over the years. It has experienced a veritable transformation as Beisuzhou Road became pedestrian-only, the gardens and boardwalks were upgraded and widened, wonderful artworks were installed, and new restaurants and shops sprung up to entice an increasing number of walkers, runners, TikTokers, lovers, and stargazers to stroll the banks of Suzhou Creek as they head for the lights of the Bund, or the galleries and iconic buildings to the West.
Geoffrey Handley, a fifth-generation Hong Kong native, has watched Hongkou District change drastically in recent years.
Could you Introduce the neighborhood you live in?
To my left, flanked by three-story-tall Corinthian columns, in a baroque tower sits the gods Eros, Hermes, and Aphrodite, guarding the imposing General Post Office Building built in 1924 – celebrating its 100th birthday this year.
To my right, there is the original gate and headquarters of the Chamber of Commerce, now part of the Bulgari residences. And 50 feet from my balcony is the Suzhou Creek, once the heart and soul of trade to and from Shanghai up into China.
I am privileged to call the Palmer & Turner Art Deco masterpiece, the Embankment Building, my home. The building is like the neighborhood, old-timers born here, apartments passed down generations, newer younger Chinese appreciating the cultural significance and a few foreigners who have been here 10, 15, or 20 years.
Handley feels privileged to call the Palmer & Turner Art Deco masterpiece, the Embankment Building, his home.
What's the best thing about living in this neighborhood?
The neighborhood itself, the north bank of Suzhou Creek, is often overshadowed by the grandeur of the Bund. However, this side of the bridges has just as many beautiful, commercial buildings, single-family mansions, and gorgeous Art Deco apartment buildings, as well as a few hidden secret spaces. The balanced mix of old and new is like a journey through time and evokes one's imagination. I am constantly looking up at the buildings and wondering who lived here back in the 1920s or 1930s.
The best thing about this neighborhood is definitely the history, reflected in the architecture as well as the stories – from neo-classical, Spanish-inspired villas, Art Deco towers, Edwardian terraced houses, Islamic-inspired markets and courtyards to complete original Shinto Honkokuji Temple still in existence today, albeit as a multi-family residence located at 439 Zhapu Road.
The newly renovated, former home of the Shanghai Municipal Council – a five-story neoclassical building with a granite facade.
What attractions here should not be missed?
As a history buff and antique collector, I fear I would bore you to death! However, if I had to narrow it down, at the top of my list would be the bridges that light up across the river at 7pm together with the Post Office columns, it is gorgeous and reminds you of Paris.
Both sides of the river are amazing obviously. But I would suggest instead of the Bund itself, walking two or three streets back – the buildings are spectacular, and many of them still have their original list of tenants in the lift lobby.
A must-see is the typically British "circle" (Fuzhou Road and Jiangxi Road) with the newly renovated, former home of the Shanghai Municipal Council – a five-story neoclassical building with a granite facade. On the other three sides of the circle are Hamilton House, the (now) Metropole Hotel and the Commercial Bank of China.
The old American Club building (209 Fuzhou Road) is a classic, one of Ladislaus (Lazlo) Hudec's masterpieces, built in 1923-1925 in a typical American Georgian style. If you ask nicely, they might let you in to take a few photos!
When I want a moment's peace I head down Sichuan Road to a secret little lane on the right-hand side – Kunshan Huayuan Road. I get the same shivers down my back each time I walk through this oasis of what were once single-family mansions with a gorgeous park in front. I literally could spend hours there, looking at their original fireplaces, hand-carved bannisters, ornate doors and door frames, secret hiding places from the Japanese and, best of all, super friendly residents eager to share their snippets of history.
When Handley wants a moment's peace, he heads down Sichuan Road to a secret little lane on the right-hand side – Kunshan Huayuan Road.
Each person may have different tastes, but they all want a great cafe. What's your favorite cafe near home?
Cafe culture in our area is just starting to blossom from the gorgeously restored Deck on the Bund (541 Sichuan Rd M. 四川中路541号) – unmistakable with the giant hand creeping out of the building – to the reliable Luneur's at MixC East section (111 Shanxi Rd N. 山西北路111号苏河湾万象天地东里1楼)
Luneur's at MixC is a reliable place for Handley.
Where should someone eat around here?
Well, on the one side are all the well-known bars and clubs on the Bund which need no introduction, or you can go local, more my style.
There's the old reliable Yang's Dumplings (178 Ningbo Rd 宁波路178号) but there are literally hundreds of small three or four table, family-run kitchens within three minutes walking distance that serve up the most delicious food at ridiculously reasonable prices and, what's more, often you are eating with the family. An experience in itself.
Handley shops at the Quanyou Linli Fruit and Vegetable market (201 Ningbo Rd 宁波路201号).
From high fashion to emerging designers, from flowers to fresh produce, where do you shop in your neighborhood?
For daily food, we can order from Aldi which takes less than 15 minutes to arrive, or I can walk through the Quanyou Linli Fruit and Vegetable market (201 Ningbo Rd 宁波路201号) stocked full with fruits, vegetables, and all cuts of meat, or choose from today's catch of fresh fish, clams and shrimps. That's where I shop. You develop a relationship with the store owner, they begin to know your preferences and if you're lucky, they'll save some favorites for you.
Shopping is an interesting one in our area, it caters to the high–end with Patek Philippe in the old British Consulate building (33 Zhongshan Rd E1), to the expansive Qipu Markets, spread over six city blocks from the corner of Henan Road and Tiantong Road. Ten years ago, it was very tourist-centric, now we are beginning to see many more superstar young fashion designers like near4rest, in a beautifully restored 1920s classical style building on Xianggang Road, to product design collectives, and the fantastic Fotografiska (127 Guangfu Rd 光复路127号) – with an amazing new cafe.
There are more and more small cafes and independent bookshops and, if the stars align, a gorgeous little antique gallery with a unique collection from the Treaty Ports Period will be opening soon.
One place that we absolutely always stop by is the flower shop Flora de Newart (corner of Tiantong Rd and Jiangxi Rd N.) on the ground floor of our building. Jason and his extremely talented and hardworking wife have been at the forefront of floral arts in Shanghai for over 20 years and have a passion not only for flowers but our building and the district.
Flora de Newart has been at the forefront of floral arts in Shanghai for over 20 years.
Is there a neighborhood place you recommend for a night out or simply a drink after work?
For a night out or a drink after work, nothing beats the rooftop bar at the Bulgari Hotel Shanghai (47/F, 108 Shanxi Rd N. 山西北路108弄宝格丽酒店47层). The views alone are worth the bill at the end of the night!
Have you made any new discoveries in your neighborhood lately?
In addition to once being the largest apartment building in Asia and the first apartment building with lifts (over 10 elevators!), it also had a sports and fitness area complete with the first indoor Art Deco swimming pool in Asia – few people know that the swimming pool is still in the building, and even fewer have seen it firsthand!
Source: Shanghai Daily
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