IN Songjiang’s Zhangze Village, the traditional way to beat the heat in summer is to eat goat meat. This year, the festival devoted to mutton will run through October 8.

For centuries, goat meat has been a summer ritual on the dinner tables of Zhangze villagers. According to traditional Chinese medicine, mutton strengthens “inner yang (hot)” energy and fortifies the body for the coming cold winter months. It is also said to ease poor circulation, relieve some heart problems, assist menstrual irregularities and help expel body toxins, especially when eaten with warmed yellow rice wine.

More than 400 goats are supplied for the festival. “We are fully prepared,” said Lin Weiying, director of the village goat market. “And all goat restaurants are required to undergo a thorough cleaning.”

Local farmers usually have a bowl of goat soup for breakfast, but urban dwellers coming to the festival can enjoy local goat specialties any time during the day or night.

On Zhangze Old Street, visitors will find takeaway meals of goat broth and noodles. For more elaborate dining, restaurants in the village offer full meals that include steamed goat, leg of goat, spicy goat and goat offal. Steaming bowls of hot goat soup are served with warmed rice wine.

According to old rural recipes, goat meat is traditionally marinated in rice wine or other local alcohol before it goes into stir-fry and braised dishes. Hot chili is the traditional condiment.

The most popular local delicacies are steamed sliced goat meat, red braised goat meat and minced goat meat. For true aficionados, there is a hot pot that includes goat blood, liver and tripe. Local cooks use the traditional method of a steamboat in a wooden vat on a clay oven.

Visitors to the festival can also buy freshly picked fruits and vegetables. Among the more famous local specialties are rice, eggs, beans, dried tofu, homemade salted pork and chicken, and the popular Yexie Town cakes.